Switchplate Outlet

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Wallpaper Removal Tips From An Experienced Professional

No doubt about it, wallpaper removal is messy. But if your tweenage son just can't stand the Choo-choo trains anymore, or you bought an older home and the "Country Kitchen" look isn't for you, here are professional instructions, from start to finish, on how-to remove old wallpaper.

Note: Wet wallpaper paste is sticky, be cafeful about walking from your work area into other areas of your home. I usually dedicate one pair of shoes for working in, taking them off before I leave my protected workspace.

Tools you will need:

Enzyme stripper, small pump sprayer, Paper Tiger scoring tool, screwdriver, putty knife or scraper, razor knife, step ladder, painter's tarps, plastic, masking tape, empty bucket, sponge, garbage bags, patience, and a good attitude.

1. Clean and organize room.

Remove all the furniture and objects from the room that are practical to do so. It's much easier to get around in an empty space. Don't forget to remove the toilet tank lid!

Remove all the switchplates and outlet covers. If the plates are wallpapered; put them in a sink with warm water and let soak. Their paper will easily come off after about an hour. Save all the screws in a baggie.

Take down all the towel bars and brackets, toiletpaper holders, and light fixtures if the paper was installed behind them. You can cut around mirrors with a razor knife if the paper was installed behind them.

2. Mask and Tarp.

Use heavy Painter's tarps on the floors, plastic over the countertops, toilets, and bathtubs. Place masking tape over outlets and switches. I like to wrap any remaining furniture in plastic as well.

3. Check the paper.

With some types of paper, the outer layer will peel off relativly easy without soaking. Pick at a seam near the bottom of the wall, and with two hands gently peel the outer layer upwards in a sheet. This will leave the paper backing; which usually does not need scoring prior to soaking. If your outer paper layer does not come off easily, it will need scoring. Go to the next step.

4. Score paper.

Scoring allows for the enzyme solution to soak through the paper and activate the adhesive. I like to use the tool known as a Paper Tiger. Simply hold it to the wall and swirl it around in circles. The more scoring the better. Run the Paper Tiger as close to any moldings as possible.

In a pinch, you can use a regular old handsaw as a scoring tool. Hold the saw parallel to the floor with two hands, one on the back of the handle and one on the back of the blade. Tilt the back of the saw downwards and gently drag the blade down the wall, tearing into the outer layer of wallpaper. Don't push too hard or you may damage your walls.

5. Soak with enzyme.

I use DIF enzyme from Zinnser. Simply mix the recommended amount with hot water in a small handheld pump sprayer. A squirt bottle works, but it's slow and will tire your hand after a while. Spray in a heavy mist from top to bottom, soaking the paper evenly. Be careful of outlets and switches, some modern switches are sensative to the DIF mixture. You are spraying water around electricity; so use common sense!

6. Wait and resoak.

Continue around the room for about 20 minutes resoaking any areas that have dried out. You need to give the DIF enough time to work.

7. Check paper.

Pick at a seam with a putty knife or scraper. The paper should lift off the wall easily. Working from bottom to top, pull the paper off the wall in large sheets if possible, running your putty knife underneath it as you go. Put the goey paper mess into a garbage bag. Otherwise you will be tracking it everywhere. If your paper does not come off in large sheets, go back to step 6. Depending on how the paper was installed, some wall damage may occur and can be repaired later.

8. Wash walls.

Once 99% of the wallpaper is gone, working in sections, spray the wall once more with your DIF mixture. Wipe the leftover paste off with a sponge rinsing it in a bucket of more warm DIF mixture. I like to use a putty knife or taping knife to scrape the heavy areas of paste as I go, this saves on wiping time. Continue wiping until the paste is gone, changing out your enzyme-water when it gets really dirty. Repeat this process with plain warm water. Your walls need to be clean! Leftover wallpaper paste can affect the performance of any paint you apply in the future.

9. Clean up mess.

Remove the nasty plastic and masking which is probably half-way on the floor by now; as the DIF dissolves masking tape adhesive as well.

10. Let dry.

I like to let things dry overnight before continuing.

11. If you are lucky and your walls have been previously painted you can paint!

Depending on how your wallpaper was installed, some repair may be needed. In worst case scenarios, this could be extensive. See my Wall Repairing, Texturing, And Painting After Wallpaper Removal to get ready to paint.

12. Replace fixtures and switchplates.

Replace your clean swithplates, outlet covers, towell bars, lights and other fixtures.

13. Enjoy!

About the Author

Ben Siebel is a successful painting contractor in Bend, Oregon. Years of retail sales and on the job experience has given him unique insight on the painting industry.